Today I finally was able to read Ennin's diary as translated by Edwin Reishchauler. I can't understand why this book is out of print. It is so interesting and so informative and I imagine everyone who is interested in Buddhism or Chinese history would love it. I feel the need to start a quest to get this book back in print.

Ennin was a Japanese Buddhist monk who travelled to China in between 839 and 847 (in the Tang). He gives a detailed description of life at the time that is enjoyable, informative and occasionally amusing. It is such a great source. It starts with the initial voyage to China and is full of the troubles at sea, deaths, storms, illness, shipwrecks. Eventually the make it to China and have to deal with the bureaucracy there in order to travel to the different monasteries for the teaching they want. There are two monks in the party the writer Ennin, who refers to himself as "The Scholar Monk" and his companion who he refers to as "The Student Monk".

The book gives a detailed representation of life in the monasteries and also details lay Buddhism to a certain extent. One part that was particularly interesting to me was a service that was described that had monks and nuns leading different parts of the services in turn. It seemed that women were really included in Buddhism at the time, and also not just as nun's but also as lay devotees and pilgrims.

The last third of the book was also quite dramatic. This was due to the fact that a new emperor came to the throne who was particularly anti-Buddhist. This seemed due to two reasons, the first he was wanting the elixir of immortality that the Taoists were promising. The second reason being more pragmatic the country was being invaded by the Uighars and he needed more troops to call up. (Monks were excluded from having to serve in the military). The details of the persecutions are quite shocking, you can feel the fear that the monks feel as they get more and more intense with each edict. It's interesting how Ennin confesses that he feels no sadness for having to return to lay life. He states the only sadness as having to leave behind the scriptures and teachings he first came to China to obtain.

The last part is the struggle the monks have in leaving China, the reverse of the struggles they had when they arrived to stay. Fortunately the Buddhist hating emperor's reign didn't last long and before Ennin left monasteries were again being established and monks were being allowed to return to them. This made Ennin's return journey possible again.

It was a delightful read. I'd recommend it to anyone who can find a copy of it and is interested in Buddhism or medieval Chinese history at all.
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